Aconcagua Climb Expedition

Climbing the highest summit in América. 22 days / 21 nights

Overview

Our program reaches two Andes icons, the highest mountain in South America (Aconcagua) and the Southernmost 6000 in the world, mt Marmolejo (6108masl). We climb Marmolejo to have the best possible acclimatization process before try Aconcagua.

In 8 days in Chile we reach summit in Marmolejo, another day resting in Santiago and another 10 days in the Parque Provincial Aconcagua including 1 extra day to attempt summit in case of bad weather.

Aconcagua is the highest Mountain along the Andes Range and named by the Quechua culture as the White Sentinel, similar to what was called by the Aymara culture who named it The Stone Sentinel. It is placed in Argentina very close to the Chilean capital city of Santiago. Annually it is visited by hundreds of mountaineers from all around the world who are trying to achieve this objective which is without further questions, a great challenge to any mountaineer professional.

Itinerary

Day 1: Airport / Hostel transfer 

This Day we meet at the hostel or in our agency to review the itinerary, guides presentation and check the personal equipment.

 

  • Max altitude: 500 masl

  • Lodging: Hostel

  • Meals: No

  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van

  • Scheme: Airport pick up and transfer to hostel, equipment checking

 

 

Day 2: Santiago / Baños Morales / Trekking San Francisco Glacier

 

  • Max altitude: 2500 masl

  • Lodging: Refuge

  • Meals: box-lunch, diner

  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van

  • Scheme: Trekking El Morado National Park, acclimatization.

 

 

Day 3: Baños Morales / El Cabrerio / Base camp 

We head from Baños Morales to Cabrerio area at the San José de Maipo Valley endings. Once there, we load up the horses and then we head to our base camp (3.600masl).

 

  • Max altitude: 3600 masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, diner

  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van

  • Scheme: Trekking approach and acclimatization, camp set-up, cooking.

 

 

 

Day 4: BC / Camp 1 

We move to camp1 (Plateau), place where we’ll be able to see for the first time Marmolejo’s summit.

 

  • Max altitude: 4100masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast,box-lunch, diner

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Trekking approach to camp 1 with expedition bag-pack on, camp set-up, cooking, acclimatization.

 

 

 

Day 5: Camp 1 / Camp 2

 

  • Max altitude: 4900 masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Trekking approachto camp 2 with expedition bag-pack on, camp set-up, cooking, acclimatization.

 

 

 

Day 6: Camp 2 / Camp high 

We’ll set up a third camp at 5100masl at the very glacier itself (Marmolejo glacier).

 

  • Max altitude: 5100masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Trekking approachto camp high, with expedition bag-pack on, camp set-up, cooking, acclimatization.

 

 

 

Day 7: Camp high / climb Marmolejo / Camp 2

In this day, we’ll reach for Marmolejo summit peak, which is at 6.108masl, and then head back to base camp.

 

  • Max altitude: 6108masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Climb Marmolejo, cooking,

 

 

 

Day 8: Camp 2 / Base camp 

We move to base camp with all gear.

 

  • Max altitude: from 4900 to 3600masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: set down and up the camp, cooking, trekking back to BC

 

 

 

Day 9: Base Camp / Santiago  

From base camp, we'll head right back to Santiago.

 

  • Max altitude: from 3600 to 500masl

  • Lodging: Hostel

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch.

  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van

  • Scheme: Trekking, drive to your hostel.

 

 

 

Day 10: Resting in Santiago 

On this day the climber is free to visit Santiago and rest.

 

  • Max altitude: 500masl

  • Lodging: Hostel

  • Meals: Breakfast at the Hostel

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Resting in Santiago

 

 

 

Day 11: Santiago / Mendoza 

We will meet at the office 18:00 to prepare luggages and equipment in our 4wd truck and drive by nigth to Mendoza.

 

  • Max altitude: 3200masl

  • Lodging: No

  • Meals: No

  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van

  • Scheme:  Equipment checking, itinerary checking, drive to Mendoza

 

 

Day 12: Mendoza / Penitentes 

The day before we was driving from Santiago to Mendoza, so this morning we will buy the climbing permit. At noon we'll be ready with this paperwork, then we head to Penitentes village to spend the night at 3200masl.

 

  • Max altitude: 3200masl

  • Lodging: Refuge

  • Meals: Box-lunch

  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van

  • Scheme: Transport to Penitentes, get the climbing permit.

 

 

 

Day 13: Penitentes / Confluencia

We’ll head towards Confluencia Camp where we’ll acclimatize in order to not force the body into critical conditions and thus have optimal chances of success.

 

  • Max altitude: 3300masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Box-lunch, dinner.

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Trekking, Camp take-up, cooking, acclimatization.

 

 

 

Day 14: Confluencia / Plaza de Mulas

We’ll start the approach towards Plaza de Mulas where we’ll set up the base camp. We’ll stay there for a couple of days.

 

  • Max altitude: 4260masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking, acclimatization.

 

 

 

Day 15: Plaza de Mulas / Nido de Cóndores / Plaza de Mulas

We’ll trekking to the next camp “Nido de Cóndores”. Then we’ll head back to base camp to spend the night. This is a key process to our expedition because we’ll get to a 5,300 masl and then we’ll head back to sleep at 4.260mts, which is optimal for acclimatisation work.

 

  • Max altitude: 5300masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.

  • Transport: NO

  • Scheme: Aclimatization trekking, cooking.

 

 

 

Day 16: Plaza de Mulas / Nido de Cóndores

 

  • Max altitude: 5300masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking, acclimatization.

 

 

 

Day 17: Nido de Cóndores / Colera Camp

From this point we’ll be at just one camp to the final camp, Colera Camp. This camp is placed over the 5.900mts. We’ll leave early morning in order to set up this camp and then spend the night at that altitude. This camping is due to modifications according to the lead guide criteria which will take the possibility of reach summit or not from the Nido de Cóndores camp.

 

  • Max altitude: 5970masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking, acclimatization.

 

 

 

Day 18: Colera camp / climb Aconcagua / Colera Camp

This should be the most important day of our expedition, since we’ll take it to the Aconcagua’s summit on this day. From Berlin camp to the summit is about a 1.000mts upwards which can be overpass after 10 to 12 hours hike.

 

  • Max altitude: 6962masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Climb Aconcagua, cooking.

 

 

 

Day 19: Extra Summit day   

 

 

Day 20 Colera camp / Plaza de Mulas

We’ll take down the high camp and head back to base camp (Plaza de Mulas).

 

  • Max altitude: 5300masl

  • Lodging: Mountain tent

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.

  • Transport: No

  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking.

 

 

 

Day 21: Plaza de Mulas / Santiago Hostel 

This will be our last day in the Park, in which we will take all our equipment in a 7 hours walk to the park entrance, where will be waiting our transport.

 

  • Lodging: Hostel

  • Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch.

  • Transport: 4WD

  • Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down, cooking, Drive to Santiago

 

 

Day 22: Hotel / santiago airport / End of our services (OUT)

The whole group will be driven to the airport.

 

  • Lodging: No

  • Meals: *Breakfast

  • Transport: 4WD or Mini Van

  • Scheme: Airport transfer (optional)

The itinerary described above is a guideline. Be aware that some changes might be done during the expedition due to weather issues. If the expedition is compromised due to a weather condition like snow storms with intense cold, or to an acclimatization difficulty from one of the members of the expedition, the chief-guide has the obligation to modify or even abort the whole expedition program if needed.

The above is for you to be aware that if something goes wrong you need to understand and (fully) cooperate with the guide, since any wrong or “too-late” decision might be fatal.

Highlights

 

  • Acclimatization in the last huge 6000 of the south of the world “Mt Marmolejo”

  • Itinerary perfectly designed to conquer the summit of Aconcagua

  • View of the most important peaks of the Central Andes, as Tupungato, Mercedario and Junkal

  • Porters are included in Marmolejo to carry the common gear to high camps, without extra cost

  • 2 days off to replenish energy and wash clothes before climbing Aconcagua

  • Visit the most famous valley near Santiago “Cajon del Maipo”, where we make a trekking

  • We will travel by night from Santiago to Mendoza to optimize rest and transfer time

  • Santiago airport has the best connectivity to airlines of Europe and North America

Expedition’s schema

 

  • Program length: 22 days

  • Altitude: 6962 m / 22615 ft

  • Location: Santiago, Chile & Mendoza, Argentina

  • Slope: 4500 m / 14764 ft  from Punta de Vacas

  • Season: November to March

  • Difficulty: This is not a technical track, but it is physically challenging. It requires crampons and ice-axe (piolet)

  • First ascent: 1897 by Mathias Zubriggen and Edward Fitzgerald (sz)

  • Expedition Team size: max 9 climbers + the mountain guides

Open Expedition

  • February 04th, 2019.

Included 

  • High mountain guide (Spanish / English )

  • Mules to carrie the common and personal gear to Plaza de Mulas (BC) and Marmolejo (BC)

  • Private transportation to climbing areas (4WD or Mini Van)

  • Transfer airport – hotel and hotel – airport

  • 1 night in Penitentes mountain refuge

  • 1 night in Baños Morales mountain refuge

  • 4 nights hostel in Santiago

  • Mountain tents (each one is for 2 persons)

  • Dinner tent (with table and chairs)

  • Foam mattress (if you requirement)

  • Cooking kit

  • All meals within the expedition (Breakfast, box lunch, diner)

  • Professional first aids kit

  • Oxygen tank

  • Heart rate monitor and oximeter

  • VHF Radio

  • Satellite radio

  • All group equipment; rope, high altitude tent, stove, GPS, etc.

  • Climbing permit in Marmolejo

 

Not included

  • Meals not descrived in Program (see itinerary)

  • Personal mountain equipment

  • Traveling and rescue insurances. We strongly recommend you to get them.

  • Any other service which wasn’t mentioned above. (restaurant meals, beverages , tips, laundry, etc.)

  • International and national flights and boarding fees.

  • Climbing permit in Aconcagua

  • 1 guide every 3 passengers

  • Satellite phone (fees by minute usage / U$D 6)

  • 2 persons per hostel room.

  • U$ 400 per person if you want single room, please let us know

  • U$ 100 per person if you want single tent, please let us know

  • Hostel lodging includes *Breakfast (see itinerary)

  • We recommend you travel with small bills

  • Weather can get as low as -25ºC (-13ºF) in the area

Nave Tours is NOT responsible for:

  • Personal services (laundry, snacks, beverages, tips, etc.)

  • Personal mountain equipment

  • Expenses in case of rescue or early departure from the expedition.

  • Delays caused by your flight or any transportation issue which you are responsible for.

  • Weather changes which may affect the expedition.

Clothing and proper equipment

In order to avoid any injury we strongly recommend to all the expedition members to have the mountain equipment described below. Each piece of the equipment will help us on the summit day, which may be terribly cold (even -25ºC /-13ºF). The proper equipment is crucial to achieve our goal.

Upper body parts

  • Sun hat

  • Wool hat

  • Balaclava / ski mask

  • 2 or 3 long sleeve polypropylene shirts (or similar)

  • Polar windstopper (or similar)

  • Waterproof jacket (Gore Tex, Triple Point, or similar)

  • Down feather parka with hood

  • Polypropylene gloves

  • Waterproof gloves

  • Down feather mittens (Tº -20 or lower) 

Down body parts

  • 2 polypropylene long underwear (or similar)

  • 1 trekking pants

  • Windproof pants (Gore Tex, Triple Point, or similar)

  • 3 or 4 pairs thin socks (Liners)

  • 3 or 4 pairs of thermal socks

  • Gaiters

  • Trekking boots (approach)

  • Mountain boots (double plastic boots)

Personal equipment

  • Ice axe (70 cm or more)

  • Crampones

  • Trekking stick (telescopic)

  • Sleeping bag (Tº lower than -20ºC)

  • Inflatable and foam mattress

  • Expedition backpack (80 liters aprox.)

  • Duffel

  • Daypack (40 liters aprox.)

  • Headlamp (and extra batteries)

  • Sunglasses (category 3 or 4)

  • Goggles

  • 2 bottles of water (1 liter each)

  • Thermos flask (1 liter)

  • Sunscreen (SPF 40)

  • Lips sunscreen (SPF 30) (Blistex)

  • Whistle, emergency mirror, and pocket knife

  • Toiletries

  • Digital camera, a book, mp3, Binoculars. [optional]

  • Personal repair kit

Recommendations:

Experience: This sort of expeditions, high altitude, is recommended for those with some experience in mountain climbing (at least 5,000masl) Daily exercise is recommended to reach this summit. We recommend you jogging, bicycle, or any exercise of your choice at least 2 to 3 times per week. And 1 a month climbing exercise near your home, since this will be the closest approach to the real thing. We recommend you to stop your exercise routine about 2 weeks before the Mt Aconcagua expedition in order to not get here over-exercised and cause negative effects on your performance. If you can get advice from a professional or a sports-doctor, get it. Otherwise, try to get some information from training manuals. Be aware that hydration is one of the most important factors for the process of acclimatization, so we strongly recommend you to start drinking lots of water.

Nourishment: This is another crucial point to consider when preparing yourself for the expedition. Your feeding routine is the cornerstone to your training exercises and the expedition itself. That’s why we strongly recommend you to eat food rich in carbohydrates, proteins, fibers and minerals. Remember before and after your training exercises you must hydrate yourself.  

Passport: 6 month left before expiration date and enough blank spaces for customs procedures. 

Vaccines: No vaccine is needed to enter Chile.

Water: The water is good. Still, we recommend you to drink bottled-water during your first days in Chile so your body gets used to the water here.

Money exchange: If you need to trade dollars into Chilean or Argentinean pesos, do it in official places.

Language: Chile’s and Argentina’s official language is Spanish. On regular basis, it will be hard for you to communicate with ordinary people. That’s why we recommend you to get a pocket-dictionary. Nevertheless, most people working in tourism speak fluent English.  

Electrical grid: 220[v] – 50[Hz].  You'll easily find electrical transformers in Santiago or any large city, but if you have the time, get one in you country.

Additional Information